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Difference Between Top-O-Matic and Top-O-Matic T2


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Old 12-01-2019, 02:17 PM
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Default Difference Between Top-O-Matic and Top-O-Matic T2

Is there a big difference between the Top-O-Matic and Top-O-Matic T2? When you open the bottom, do the parts of the T2 look heavier and more durable than the regular Top-O-Matic, or are the internal parts the same?

Thanks,

Chris
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:38 PM
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if you search for it here in the forum, you'll find it's been discussed ad nausem
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Old 12-02-2019, 07:15 AM
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The major outward differences when you look at the mechanical construction, in my layman's terms I would say the regular Topomatic resembles a Premier Supermatic. Which I never liked, a finnicky design IMO.

Inside, they bear little resemblance. As for a comparo of the 2, I personally would have to say the win goes to the T2.

The T2 is essentially bubba proof, meaning there's no tuning-adjusting ever needed, just keep her clean, and on an occasion perhaps lightly lube any pivot points.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkD51 View Post
The major outward differences when you look at the mechanical construction, in my layman's terms I would say the regular Topomatic resembles a Premier Supermatic. Which I never liked, a finnicky design IMO.

Inside, they bear little resemblance. As for a comparo of the 2, I personally would have to say the win goes to the T2.

The T2 is essentially bubba proof, meaning there's no tuning-adjusting ever needed, just keep her clean, and on an occasion perhaps lightly lube any pivot points.
Thank you, Mark. I think I am going to order the T2. I already have a regular Top-O-Matic which I purchased back in August of 2012. It has over 3 years of use. I was curious if the T2 was definitely a more durable machine. I think the regular Top-O-Matic is a great machine, and mine has worked very well and it still works well, although I think I should take it apart and clean it. I found this link:

https://syo.dalrun.com/Machines/Crank/Matics/Servicing/330.html
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:09 PM
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The basics rules apply to all injectors:

Too moist or too dry a tobacco, or too course-too fine can cause jamming and/or hard cranking. Such places harder stresses on the machine.

Same with over-filling the chamber. The T2 is not specifically unusual, or different in its feeding habits.

The T2 cranks out smokes effortlessly otherwise.

The weakest part on the T2 is the Plastic Bushing-Collar beneath the Crank Handle, and supports the Crank Handle Bolt. I had one crack once.
While I probably could've crazy-epoxy glued it, I ordered two new ones from an online source. Was a little bit hard to find.

Clean tobacco, meaning such that is not loaded with what some here might call "Humectants", the machine parts such as Chamber, Cutter, Chute, and Spoon stay clean for quite a long time before requiring cleaning.

Those tobaccos that have more gooey stuff added, flavorings, whatnot, you'll note these areas mentioned above having tobacco and residues stuck to them. The more that accumulates, the machine begins to bog down, and can crank harder without even any tobacco in the chamber.

One area that fooled me a couple times, wondering "what the heck!?" I found it to be accumulated residues right inside of the little Chute itself, the part where you slide the Cigarette Tube onto. Being that it was at the top of the Chute, it was not so easily seen. Q-Tips and Alcohol showed the accumulation, brown crud.

Many times what I used to use as a cleaner in the olden days, Whiskey, Brandy, or some other Spirit of choice on hand. The higher the proof, the better they clean.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by MarkD51; 12-02-2019 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:27 PM
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Take a look at this old injector:



http://www.ryomagazine.com/2012originalsuperhead.jpg

http://www.ryomagazine.com/injectors.htm

When were injector machines first manufactured?

Last edited by chris2019; 12-05-2019 at 05:31 PM.
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